London Week Two Recap

50th Birthday Trip Third & Final Part

“… because when you were nineteen, didn’t YOU ever want to create something beautiful and pure just so one day you could set it on fire and then watch the city light up as it burned?” The Sarah Records documentary ‘My Secret World’ is now on YouTube. I finally got the chance to see it the week before I left for London, and my goodness is it wonderful. Really took me back to how much that label meant to me over the years, just how special they were, and how it was one of those little fortuitous moments when I discovered them browsing the 7” racks at Brass City Records the week before I left for college in 1994, a moment I could have little idea how much it would go on to shape my life. The 7” I picked up that day was SARAH16, Another Sunny Day’s What’s Happened?, taken in by the cover, the name of the label, and Brass City owner Walter getting all excited that I was about to enter this ‘secret world’ too

I love how as the doc goes on, whenever Another Sunny Day main man Harvey Williams is speaking they keep adding bands underneath his name. Harvey and I were good friends back in 2005/2006, hanging out and going to gigs, Harv even taking me to see Scritti Politti at The Luminaire for my 30th birthday. But we lost touch over the years as you do and I hadn’t seen him in over a decade. Inspired by the doc, I shot him an email that I’d be over and he invited me along to view Bonhams’ 50 Years Of Punk catalogue before everything went to auction

I’m up early again and heading down to Knightsbridge, the chichi area of London where Harrod’s is, yes I know, very punk rock. And that’s something I have to put to one side about all this. The people who made this stuff would never have dreamt of and very much disdained the idea of it going to private collectors for thousands of pounds. It was never about the money, except of course for Malcolm McLaren for whom cash and chaos seemed to be his raison d'être. I guess you could argue that repeatedly taking huge record company advances for the Pistols and then wiggling out of the contract to move on and do it again was more about the spectacle than the cash but that’s a discussion for another time. And anyway it’s Menace’s G.L.C. that’s stuck in my head the whole journey there, a tune Harvey and I bonded over years ago on LiveJournal. I think I know three people who know the band Menace, but G.L.C. and Last Year’s Youth are punk anthems everyone should be aware of

I’m not sure what I’m expecting but it isn’t what’s on display. Not that some of it isn’t very cool. Too many to fit here, but you can see my pics on IG. There’s Brian James’ handwritten lyrics to New Rose. Checking now, these went for £15,360, roughly $20,900. Also his SG guitar, positioned near two owned by Lou Reed, brands I’ve never heard of and doing little to impress besides the association with their previous owner, as well as a truly bizarre ax of Mick Jones’ that just screamed ‘80s cocaine’ - buttons instead of knobs and an LED screen to display the volume, whilst instead of frets the neck appeared to be stepped. Some great photos of Siouxsie, Debbie Harry, and The Jam, rad old gig flyers and fanzines, a heavily graffitied piece of the original Marquee dressing room, a rack of clothes with some Vivienne Westwoods, and other odds and ends. A bit puzzled but glad we went, Harvey and I decamp to a nearby caff to catch up

Since I’m in West London I decide to head to Notting Hill Gate, a part of town that’s very dear to me as it was Bayswater/Portobello Road that was my first ever taste of London in July 1992, hitting the ground immediately after getting off the plane and sniffing out the record stores, my nose leading me straight to the Rough Trade shop. As I excitedly strolled those streets, my 16-year-old self had a sense of finally being ‘home’. Today I’m exhausted though and it turns out I won’t get to Portobello and Rough Trade this trip. Walking out of Notting Hill Gate tube stop I am struck with a very strange sense of nostalgia, as if I’ve just stepped into 1998. Not a bad thing, but it has never occurred to me before how touristy the area is, focused as I’d always been on its record, book, and film shops. I hit these but nothing’s really calling to me. I have to stay out because Ben & Helen’s cleaner is there today so now quite hungry I head into central London and hit one of my favourite vegan spots in the world, Vantra. It used to be this wonderful buffet right outside Tottenham Court Road tube but has now turned into a more fancy restaurant on Wardour Street in Chinatown. I interviewed the owner Phun once for the Happy Cow website, him giving me one of my favourite quotes - “No garlic, makes people too horny. They can’t meditate.” I get the chia seed crackers with sunflower cheeze and mango which are DELICIOUS and then I’m going back and forth between the ramen and the curry, opt for the ramen but continue to question this choice. It’s very good, and hella nourishing, though I can’t help but feel if I were less tired I would appreciate this a whole lot more. Still, there’s a gluten-free toffee apple donut on the dessert menu and as I would love it if donuts were more widely gf and vegan I scarf one down as well

Strolling through Leicester Square to the few used bookshops that remain on Charing Cross Road but at some point I have to call it and head back to Crouch Hill. The cleaner gives me the side eye for coming back so early but she finishes my room and I collapse. This nap is EVEN MORE DELICIOUS than the meal I’ve just eaten and I feel positively wonderful when I wake up a few hours later. Then it’s back to work

Wednesday is spent working all day but when 5 PM rolls around I feel I’ve gotten everything done I need to for the record’s release on Friday. Heading up to the Hillbilly Social in N22 for Hettie Judah’s book signing/art show. Hannah Murgatroyd is exhibiting a couple lovely pieces and I’m hoping she’ll be there so we can finally meet in person. Helen from Shrag had introduced us over a decade ago now, Helen thinking I’d like Hannah’s writing, which I very much do. Hannah’s more focused on painting these days and I really like her work there too. Alas, she lives in Bath and won’t be here tonight. The Hillbilly Social is a small cafe that is jampacked for the event. I had met Hettie a couple years ago when she was in NYC promoting her Lapidarium: The Secret Lives Of Stones book. With that title, I had to go. Hettie is incredibly busy and very prolific, always doing something, and tonight she’s signing her latest book How to Enter the Art World…after a late start, a first career, illness, raising children, a crisis of confidence, leaving it in disgust... I introduce myself again to which she responds ‘What are you doing on this side of the pond? You just had a birthday, didn’t you?’ Always lovely to be remembered

Afterwards I hightail it to The Lexington where Charley Stone (no relation) is taking me to see Memorials for my birthday. Always great to see Charley, we catch up at the bar, her telling me about her time playing guitar on one of the latest Art Brut tours, then it’s upstairs to push our way to the front and be mesmerized by Memorials. They are SO GOOD. Cosmic grooves you just don’t want to end, interspersed with softer more melodic ethereal pieces. I’ve always liked what I heard on record and live they really sold me. Charley and I catch the 91 bus back to Crouch End, talking astrology and Dickon Edwards’ now-published-as-a-book diary. Kate was telling me how great this is too, I really must get a copy. I looked but couldn’t find it in any of the shops

Thursday I get some good writing done then it’s off to meet Sarll at The Cart & Horses in East London. In the first one of these recaps I had lamented that The Ruskin Arms had closed in 2018. The Ruskin Arms being where I always believed Iron Maiden had gotten their start. In the home videos released in the late 80s that I obsessed over, Steve Harris would be sat at the bar of The Ruskin Arms discussing their early days. On Saturday Kevin Reinhardt, hailing from just up the road, will tell me they ‘were taught in school’ it was The Ruskin Arms. Heh. Sarll seeing my post messages me that The Cart & Horses claims to be ‘THE BIRTHPLACE OF IRON MAIDEN’, and it’s a strong claim as Maiden played there weekly between 1976-1978

It’s a lovely sunny day as I make my way out east, and it must be said it was perfect though very un-London-like weather almost the entire time I was there - clear skies, warm sometimes hot, one doesn’t want to quote Blind Melon but ‘no rain’. Intrigued by the wonderful piece on him in Volcanic Tongue, I’m listening to Peter Brötzmann, the German saxophonist and huge influential figure in the European free jazz scene. This is Glorious Music. Beautiful chaotic noise not without its melodic elements that I often think is the sound of my soul. Brötzmann is a man who gave everything to his music because if that’s the life you want to live, that’s what you do. He even blew out his lungs - something I didn’t know was possible - from playing so hard as he strived to get his sound

So I’m thrilled at a new musical discovery and my happiness will only deepen as I come upon The Cart & Horses. The Maiden memorabilia is OVERWHELMING and my 13-year-old self is doing backflips inside. Again there’s way too many to post here, but my photos of the place are over at Instagram. One I didn’t have room for is that the doormat even says Iron Maiden. And below that is the view I had for Sarll and my couple hours there, during which they played Maiden the entire time

I loved how the door to the ladies’ room is the Purgatory single cover and to the men’s it’s The Trooper

There are signed photos galore, and professional press photos from very early on. I know Steve Harris was always very serious about making Maiden happen but getting press pics done is a level of commitment, financial and otherwise, that lots of bands don’t take so early in their careers. There are line-ups with him being the only name I recognize and a few changes along the way leading up to the crew that made the first record. A British Beer Guide with the title in the Maiden font boasts an intro by Bruce Dickinson. Plenty of bottles, cans, and glasses with different designs for the band’s own Trooper beer. Maiden used to play right upstairs where we are, though the venue was twice the size back then, before flats got put up in back. After that they built the venue in the basement where Steve Harris has played, the very accommodating woman behind the bar tells me as she shows me around. I daren’t ask about The Ruskin Arms, heh

I’m giddy as we spend a couple hours here, high on the Maiden memories, though it’s not just that. Although I’m only on orange juice, this is a lovely reminder of how pleasant day drinking is, something I used to spend a lot of time doing in my previous life here. I opt to walk back through Stratford to catch the Tube to Borough and meet David Shah for dinner. David’s chosen a Banh Mi place that he says has the best broth in London but although I’ve perused the menu ahead of time, the language barrier and my strict dietary habits aren’t able to reconcile so it’s a quick check of Happy Cow to find Silka, an Indian restaurant across the street. This is totally the right move as we’re given a comfy booth instead of the communal table we were at and it’s one of the best meals I will have this trip. I’m due to be going to a gig down the road afterwards and had initially thought we’d only be an hour or so but we end up dining for almost two and it’s a very enjoyable evening, not only reminiscing about the old days of The Soft Close-Ups but catching up on all manner of things in the music scene and otherwise. We say our goodbyes at London Bridge and I walk about halfway to the venue before I realize that I’ve had a really nice day so far, I’m tired now, and bed is beckoning. The right call as it turns out for the Tube is full of delays and I would’ve been pretty grumpy had I left it later

Friday morning I head down to North & 10 to meet Bill Drummond for tea. Great to catch up per usual and him laughing appreciatively at what I tell him about my next two books. His own current projects are of course amazing. The above 12” record is a result of The Tied Hands 480 day tour of the World Wide Web, during which various folks from around the world would host a poster of tied hands for 40 days on their site and also record a cover of The Shangri-La’s Past, Present & Future, collected here on the vinyl. Bill then pressed up 480 of these. He tells me that since all records are destined to end up in a charity shop anyway, he’s decided to bypass the middleman and distribute them straight to said shops, every Friday picking a different area of London to head to and give away 10 copies. This Friday it’s Crouch End and there’s also a record for me

Then it’s wayyyyyy down to Honor Oak again to meet Francesca for an encore edition of Amrutha and their out-of-this-world pakoras. This is also one of the two times per year I will treat myself to ice cream as vegan pistachio is on the menu. Great to spend part of the afternoon with such a good friend who I only get to see every couple of years these days. Then it’s the P4 new-route-number-for-me bus going well across South London to Brixton. I always smile whenever I pass Electric Avenue, I loved that song as a kid. Nice to see the Ritzy Cinema is still going, I snap this photo of Pam Grier they’ve got on the side of the building, and further down Coldharbour Lane is my destination, Bookmongers. So glad they still exist. I bought most of my Tom Sharpe novels there back in 2008. Very friendly folks behind the counter and good selection of books, though I already have all the ones I want

Heavenly have just gotten back from their east coast American tour. One of these days I’ll be near a city where they’re playing. I caught Marine Research and Tender Trap back in the day but never Heavenly. It’d be good to see Amelia and Rob while I’m over but they live well outside of London. Nevertheless, Amelia messages me that Rob’s playing bass for European Sun tonight in Hackney. Briefly stopping back in Crouch Hill, I hop on the Overground to be greeted at the door with ‘that’ll be £27, please’. They’re opening for a bigger band but still I was under the impression it would be more reasonable indiepop gig prices. £27 is a lot of money to catch a half hour opening set. I message Amelia to see if they can come outside after ES are done and since I’m in Hackney head over to check out Temple Of Seitan. Not so much with the gluten-free options. Just as I’m about to get back on the train, Amelia replies that she can pop outside for a quick chat. Which turns into a lovely 45 minute catch-up on the corner of Hackney Central Station

Saturday morning up early walking the abandoned train line to get to Crouch Hill Station to head out to Leytonstone, again so much easier than it was in the old days. Pete Paphides is giving a talk in the back garden of Stone Mini-Mart. I’ve followed Pete online for a while now. I’m a fan of what he does, he’s a Dolly Mixture fan, and doing cool stuff with his record label, Needle Mythology. As I’m sitting there waiting for the event to begin I am genuinely surprised to the point of even uttering a ‘holy crap!’ as David Harley walks up to me with a big smile. I have not seen him in years, probably since the last time the Close-Ups played. I had met David back in 2006 when Luxembourg did their secret gig at the rehearsal space in Camden to retire their old songs in order to make way for the coming album. I was launching H Bird at the time and David came down to our first gig at The Windmill, even buying a ticket ahead of time, and he was always a big supporter of the Close-Ups when we got going. It’s great to see him and catch up. Pete’s talk is awesome, very entertaining as he regales us with stories of interviewing Paul McCartney, Damon Albarn, Paul Weller, and others, and he’s even brought along Needle Mythology white label test pressings for anyone who wants one. I introduce myself and he hooks me up with the double LP of the Sensitive indiepop compilation. On my way out I run into Mark who runs the Rock N Roll Book Club who organized the event. Such an effusively cheerful guy and putting on great events and podcasts at the intersection of music and writing, so very much my thing

Back home for another delicious nap, sleep really being at a premium these days. Up in time to get my daily writing done and with an hour to spare before my evening plans, I head into town to check out Karma Sanctum Soho, the hotel that Iron Maiden owns. The woman behind the desk answers all my questions and Maiden are actually staying there this weekend ahead of the launch for their new documentary. I’m giddy with excitement and she tells me I can head up to the rooftop bar if I like and grab a drink. The hotel is very rock n roll in an upscale way. I have a wander then it’s out into the drizzle - the only rain I’ll get this whole trip - to head to Vantra again to meet Kevin and Keith for dinner. At which I get to have the curry I’d been eyeing the other day and it is wonderful. We all get the curry, actually, Keith even eating something at a vegan restaurant! Last one I took him to - Life Alive in Boston - he just nodded with a laugh ‘I’m alright’ and patiently waited as I munched down my Green Goddess bowl. Conversation gets quite precise as the two of them do quick calculations concerning the number of times William Shatner played a villain on Columbo

Kevin’s treating me to Patrick Fitzgerald from Kitchens Of Distinction’s gig at The 100 Club for my birthday. I’d had a Sex Pistols at The 100 Club poster on my bedroom wall when I was in junior high so it always seems a special place to me. And tonight I’m reminded of how early on I’d realized how amazing London is because you could be at a gig, turn around, and Miki from Lush could be standing right next to you. She’s dueting with Patrick tonight which is a bonus for everybody. The Soft Close-Ups are very much in the air today as I run into Colm, our bass player from when David and I expanded our ‘art-pop duo’ into the full live rock band. Great to see him and hear he’s making music again with Language Of Flowers

Patrick Fitzgerald is excellent. It’s a lovely set and feel-good vibe in the room. I always really liked Kitchens Of Distinction when I heard them and my best friend had The Death Of Cool in high school but I don’t really know their stuff well. I’ve been rectifying this since I’ve been home, listening to them everyday. Quick As Rainbows is a fantastic song, as is 4 Men. Everybody singing along to the latter is quite a moment

On to Feeling Gloomy’s Pet Shop Boys Special where Sean has put me on the guestlist. Stay for an hour, which is longer than I’d planned. Great to see him and Kitty one more time. Bump into Ben & Helen who are arriving just as I’m leaving but it’s again the right call. A very easy journey home and bed at a decent hour

Sunday, my last full day in town. Take Ben & Helen to Lydia’s for brunch to thank them for hosting me. Next down to the Tate Modern to meet Stephen Coates. Scheduling has been tight and I’m glad we can fit this in. I still can’t pass by the Thames without hearing Waterloo Sunset and going all wistful at the beauty of it all. Strolling a bit maudlin from Waterloo station to the Tate, with this song in my head and a tear in my eye, I actually say out loud to that dirty old river ‘it’s you I’m going to miss the most’. Great to catch up with Stephen, talking about our various creative projects, and agreeing to send each other demos of what we’re currently working on. I love what he’s been doing with his Bureau Of Lost Culture radio show and I anxiously await the next Real Tuesday Weld album

Back in Crouch Hill I desperately need to eat and shower before heading to the Shaftesbury Tavern down the other side of the hill for one last visit to the pub. Meeting Nicky’s daughters for the first time, though I’ve cast both their birth charts so I kinda already know them. Looking at their charts again at the table, I’m reminded that Julia is a double Dragon like me, which endears me to her. She’s got a very powerful chart overall, she’ll be a great artist if that’s the path she wants to go. But as is often the case with powerful charts, she’s a quiet and unassuming 13 year old, sitting there with her apple juice drawing, including the wonderful above pic of me, Sarll, and Keith Top Of The Pops. I tell her that us Dragons are magic and she smiles as if she knows

Lou, on the other hand, is giving me the business. Apparently she’d been singing Rachel On The Rooftops before they came but declines my request to hear it. She has a lot of questions though

Lou, age 11: ‘Are your songs on Spotify and Amazon and all them?’

Me: ‘They’re on Amazon and everywhere else but not on Spotify.’

Lou, age 11: ‘Oh, well I only use Spotify actually. Are you single?’

Nicky: ‘Why, are you going to set him up?’

Lou, age 11: ‘Nah, can’t be bothered.’

I hadn’t seen Blake in 15 years, since Duncan & Nicky’s wedding. When I first met Duncan, Blake soon asked him ‘who’s this friend of yours who’s got so many better stories than everyone else? Did you hire an American actor to make you seem more interesting or something?’ So in my best man speech, I introduced myself to the largely unfamiliar crowd as ‘the actor Duncan hired to impress John Blake.’ Always one for a niche reference, me

Ben & Helen arrive just as Nicky and co. are leaving, oddly echoing the change in the social scene 12 years ago. They’ve just been to a restaurant that serves Irn Bru ice cream and deep-fried Mars bars, and the night carries on. Talk again returns to Shatner on Columbo, Ben, excited the topic has come up, nails the correct answer - three - straight away. It’s a lovely send-off

Up early on this final morning. I haven’t really unpacked, just kept the suitcase open next to my bed, so packing isn’t that difficult. Though now I’ve acquired 4 12” vinyl records, 4 cds, and 9 books to fit in. A wander down to Crouch End with Ben & Helen for one final bagel and it’s perfect English weather for my last few hours here. The sky completely overcast, all white-grey with a pleasant chill in the air. I love it

Easy enough to get to Heathrow though despite attempting to be British about having to leave, it’s with quivering lower lip that I stroll to my gate. I’ve had two of the best weeks of my life, everything constantly coming up roses. A number of people have asked me what the highlight was and honestly, it’s impossible to choose. They all were